Layout and cut out

Saturday I started with cutting out the lining of the dress.   I will be underlining the bodice and lining the entire dress.  I cut 2 copies of the lining for the bodice and 1 copy for the skirt with 1 inch seam allowances.  I cut larger than normal seam allowances to give the ability to adjust the fit better as the gown is constructed.

After cutting out the linings.  I traced the seam lines on to the cut pieces.  I didn’t want to put any markings on the dress fabric to prevent any markings coming through on the dress itself.   Any markings I need to make to the actual dress fabric will be done with thread tacks.

Marking the seam locations on the lining

Marking the seam locations on the lining

Underlining is a technique where you sew the underlining and fashion fabric as one piece.  The benefit of it is that it gives more structure to the fashion fabric, reduces the appearance of seam allowances to the front of the dress and can add richness to the color of the dress, depending on the color of the underlining.   In Kendra’s dress, I underlined the ivory silk with white giving the dress a more etherial look.   For Jacquelyn’s dress, we want to have a deep ivory color, so I am underlining it with ivory colored china silk.

It took me about an hour to cut out the lining and another hour to mark it.

tomorrow:  cutting out the dress.


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