Because I custom fitted the muslin, I had separate pattern pieces for the left and right. That means I had to cut the bodice in a single layer. The benefit of this is that Jac will get a custom fit, even if her body is lopsided. And lets face it ladies, we all have lopsided bodies in one way or another. For most women, one side is larger or higher or something. By custom fitting your clothes, you can hide the difference.
Here is the bodice being layed out on the fabric.
All layed out & ready to cut
Take a deep breath, because we are ready to cut! I always take a break & a deep breath before cutting such important fabric. I also cut it all in one sitting, just so I don’t forget how I had it layed out for the nap of the fabric. In my experience all fabric has a nap. In some it is much less noticeable than others. But it is possible that the human eye will not be able to see a change in color, but the camera will. Since a wedding dress is photographed all day long, I didn’t want to take any chances. All the pieces were cut out in the same direction to the sheen of the fabric will be consistent on all photos.
Half of the bodice cut
And here we are – All done cutting. I can breathe a sigh of relief. I got it all cut out and I have enough fabric left in case I run into a problem with any piece. Hard to believe that this small set of folded fabric will be a wedding dress with a train – but it will. (the cd is just there to give you scale.)
All cut out
And speaking of scales, the entire fabric for the dress, fashion fabric & lining, weighs a total of 1 lb 10 oz. It is going to be so light, Jac will feel like she is naked. Oh, I hope that comment does not trigger any nightmares of walking down the aisle in her birthday suit.
Saturday I started with cutting out the lining of the dress. I will be underlining the bodice and lining the entire dress. I cut 2 copies of the lining for the bodice and 1 copy for the skirt with 1 inch seam allowances. I cut larger than normal seam allowances to give the ability to adjust the fit better as the gown is constructed.
After cutting out the linings. I traced the seam lines on to the cut pieces. I didn’t want to put any markings on the dress fabric to prevent any markings coming through on the dress itself. Any markings I need to make to the actual dress fabric will be done with thread tacks.
Marking the seam locations on the lining
Underlining is a technique where you sew the underlining and fashion fabric as one piece. The benefit of it is that it gives more structure to the fashion fabric, reduces the appearance of seam allowances to the front of the dress and can add richness to the color of the dress, depending on the color of the underlining. In Kendra’s dress, I underlined the ivory silk with white giving the dress a more etherial look. For Jacquelyn’s dress, we want to have a deep ivory color, so I am underlining it with ivory colored china silk.
It took me about an hour to cut out the lining and another hour to mark it.
The fabric arrived on Friday April 24th. It is very exciting. I found it atDharma Trading Companyfor a very good price. It is Silk Charmeuse in ivory. Dharma sells many kinds of natural fabrics for dying. This Silk is actually a natural color but it is also the perfect color ivory. Dharma also has pre-made accessories and clothing to dye or print. It is a very cool site.
On Saturday, I went and purchased the lining material, buttons, zipper and thread. Everything is ready to begin. I plan on having the dress all cut out by the end of the weekend.